One Sleeve Pattern, Many sleeves
by Lady Ydeneya De Baillencourt
During the renaissance one of the main focal points of the gowns was the different sleeve designs. Many of these designs can be achieved by simple manipulation of a single sleeve pattern such as this
In this class I will show you how to create a number of different sleeves.
Take for instance this very well known portrait
These are known as paned or panel sleeves, they are created by cutting the sleeves pattern into four pieces from shoulder to wrist, remembering to add in extra for turnings once you have cut the pattern, and then extending the length of the sleeve pattern to allow the “baragoni” or roll to be created at the shoulder seam. The strips of sleeve are individually lined, embellished as required and then sewn together at intervals up the length of the sleeve, leaving gaps where the chemise can poke through. These sleeves can be made as permanently attached to the gown or detachable using buttons and loops at the shoulder.
In the next portrait we create another type of baragoni by adding another layer of fabric.
This baragoni, sleeve roll, is created by cutting a second piece of fabric approximately three times the width and half the length of the original sleeve pattern. Then lines of sitiching to gather this rectangle are sewn along each of the long edges and two more at 1/3 width and 2/3 width parallel to the long edges. Drawing up these lines of stitching the top can be sewn to the shoulder line of the sleeve pattern and the bottom edge gathered either onto the sleeve or onto a small armband which can be sewn onto to the original sleeve. Apologies for my wonky diagram below.
The panes can be created by cutting the sleeve pattern and attaching new panes, which give the gamps for the chemise to show through, or by cutting the sleeve pattern down to the required level. Both of these methods give a similar result. The panes need to be lined to give strength.
These are just a small sample of the types of sleeves that can be made with just one sleeve pattern.